Raja Ampat-Dive spot

Colorful fish swim around coral reef in the Mansuar water.: JP/J. Adiguna

The clear blue water seemed flawless as I sat on the deck of the ferry.

As we saw shadows of green hills amid the abundant fresh blue water covering the horizon, mama Albertina Thesia and her company of singers began to sing a traditional Papua song — a song of joy to see the big island, Waigeo.

“We are glad to be home”, she said, glowing sparks showed in her eyes. Stephen Hindom, her partner, tapped a tranquilizing rhythm of Tifa, a traditional Papuan percussion.

Together with a group of family and singers, they are about to join their relative in Wasai, the capital of Raja Ampat regency, celebrating the seventh anniversary of Raja Ampat as an autonomous regency. “We’ll be performing at the opening ceremony tomorrow,” she said proudly.

While the fascination remained, suddenly groups of small boats, decorated with palm leaves, popped out from a near cove, moving closer to our ferry. They were welcoming us.

A woman from Salawati Island takes the starch from a sago palm for a celebration.: JP/J. Adiguna

Young brown-skinned and curly haired people with happy faces waved their hands cheerfully. They shouted the local greeting. Their eyes gazed at the ferry, looking for familiar faces.

Another cheerful rhythm of Tifa and Tambur, big traditional Papuan drums, echoed through the small islands in front of us. At the end of a wooden pier on the beach, stood a big brown bearded old man, wearing a traditional costume. He danced, stamped leaves in his hand while his legs moved to the the music. He was accompanied by groups of women young and old, wearing traditional cloth.
Welcome to Raja Ampat, heart of the Golden Triangle of the world!

Legend has it that the area was founded by four kings who were grown from eggs laid by a megapode bird. Later, the four kings settled in four large islands, which make up Raja Ampat regency: Waigeo, Salawati, Batanta and Misool.

Raja Ampat means four kings in Indonesian and its legend spreads beyond the indigenous people. The international community acknowledge Raja Ampat as the greatest repository of tropical marine life on earth. With its richness in marine life diversity, it’s known as the world’s “capital of coral and fish”.
More than 600 small islands with various shapes located in the north, west and south of Papua’s  bird’s head peninsula gives Raja Ampat a geographical shelter from ocean waves.

Countless species of wildlife, including birds, fish and coral are found in this area which scientists are still studying its geographical advantage on nearby coral reefs including the Philippines, eastern Indonesia and the territory eastward to the Solomon Island.

In 1993, the Indonesian government declared Raja Ampat as a marine protected area (MPA) in the effort to protect this rich area that covers more than 60,000 square kilometers. A decade later, Raja Ampat became an autonomous regency under the province of West Papua.  It makes it easier for the government and other organizations to implement the conservation and rehabilitation programs.

With more than 40,000 people living separately on 35 islands (mainly on the four big islands), reaching Raja Ampat is a challenge. A remote island surrounded by fresh blue water with a few harbors make a small boat and kayak ideal transportation for its people. Wasai, the capital of Raja Ampat, can be reached with a ferry from Sorong, the capital of West Papua province.

The area nearby Kabui offers breathtaking scenery.: JP/J.Adiguna

Entering Wasai from the harbor, you will find clear evidence of how the government has tried to improve and provide proper infrastructure in this remote place. There are small shacks and houses, but at least they have roads, a small health clinic, a government center, communication facilities and a market.

Cozy accommodation is easy to find as there are a few cottages which offer varied services from Rp 100,000 (US$10) to Rp 400.000 per night. Mostly, these are located near Wasai Beach. As an alternative, many houses are modified into homestays where you can experience the warmth and kindness of the people.

Local authorities have developed training for the people to prepare their home as homestays for. As long as you don’t mind bathing outside and sharing your private space with others, there is no problem. If anything, it provided more value and memories to our adventurous journey.

As for the food, you need not worry as long as you can eat seafood. The unique Papuan cooking style has an unforgettable delicious taste. If you have a chance, you should try “sagu bia”. It is made from sago cooked with a local clam called bia.

It is mixed with local herbs and salt and pepper, and is placed in a banana leaf and left roasted on hot stone. The spicy and gummy taste from the sago, mixed with the strong taste of the clam is worth a try. Locals say it can increase the libido.  

For diving enthusiasts, there are some resorts to visit and dozens of cruises that offer services. The price varies between ¤5,000 (US$6,200) per person for a 10-day dive package to Rp 25,000,000 ($2,700) for five people for a three-day dive package.

You’ll be promised wonderful sights and marine life such as the spotted wobbegong, fimbriated moray, goliath grouper, manta ray and the sperm whale, reported to have been seen swimming around the water of Ayau Island, north of Waigeo.

Tourists enjoy the calm water in the Kabui Bay.: JP/J.Adiguna

Don’t miss the opportunity to visit small islands nearby with kayaks or small boats, especially in Kabui Bay or the small cove surrounding Gam area. You can learn moer about the legend of how King Waikew of Waigeo Island found seven eggs laid by a megapode bird. Four hatched and turned into four handsome princes who later ruled the four big islands. Another egg hatched and became a woman who was washed away and stranded in Biak, Papua. Another hatched and became a ghost
that protected the sea and the last one didn’t hatch and turned into a big stone
in Mayalibit bay.

As we float through the narrow strait between the mangrove jungle in a hidden bay, we feel the water become warmer. Sometimes we spot big brown-headed eagles fly above us.

We can also see red coral or big sea anemones,  which grow only 2 meters below the clear water which is filled with orange ocellaris clownfish. Just beware of crocodiles when you do it. They are known to inhabit the mangroves.

Most people in Raja Ampat live as fishermen. They developed the tradition, which follows the harmony of nature. Indigenous people called themselves the Maya tribe. Years of influence from nearby islands mean the people of Raja Ampat have mixed ancestry with Maya and Biak as the majority.

There are many Melanisas as well as a few people life in southern Raja Ampat around Misool, descended from inter-island traders from Maluku and Sulawesi.

Uniquely they together adopt the same fishing technique called bacigi bwhich is fishing using string with no bait at the hook. Another technique ia called molo which is free diving, armed with a traditional spear gun called kalawai. The fishermen usually dive for 10-15 minutes in the water.

The declaration of Raja Ampat as a protected area recognizes the tradition of Raja Ampat people who had been preserving the marine biodiversity.

The help from natural conservation organizations such as Conservation International, The Natural Conservancy, World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and many others, together with the Indonesian and local government, are needed to preserve the environment.

There are many challenges to overcome. Great reserves of nickel and ore located in Waigeo, illegal fishing, the increasing po-pulation and the construction of  modern infrastructure threaten the environment.

— Photos by J. Adiguna

Baliem Valley -West papua

The Lani
Like the Dani, the Lani are expert farmers utilising
a highly effective and efficient irrigation system to
produce abundant crops of Sweet Potatoes (Ubi),
Tobacco, Beans, Taro, Spinach, Sugar Cane and Bananas. Much of the Lani lands lie in a beautiful oasis interspersed
with checkerboard patterned sweet potato gardens.
The Lani are more stockily built than the medium-bodied
Dani and their lands are more densely populated.
They tend to congregate in largish villages rather than
the small compounds which dominate Dani territory.

The Baliem Valley
was once dubbed
Shangri La and it is
easy to see why.
The Valley is incredibly
lush and fertile
and is surrounded on
all sides by towering
peaks of 2,500
to 3,000 metres. The fertility is such that the valley has been farmed for 9,000 years
but it was only discovered by westerners in 1938! There are three mains tribes
inhabiting the Baliem Valley: The Dani in the base, the Lani to the west and
the Yali in the south-east. Each tribe has a distinct culture. One sure and
interesting way to distinguish between the tribes is from the Koteka,
or penis gourd, sported by the male members. The men of each tribe tend
to the growing of the gourds with the three tribes each cultivating a different style.
The Dani use a long, thin Koteka, the Lani sport a medium sized,
wide cannon-like gourd, and the Yali wear the longest of all.

The Dani
Entering Dani territory involves a journey into a deeper reality.
The inevitable pig-feast on arrival is your rite of passage into their unique culture
for an engrossing a four or five hour intense experience. You will find yourself in
a simple, traditional compound surrounded by fully greased and painted
Dani tribes-people wearing their ceremonial best.

The whole elaborate affair is deeply spiritual, far more than a photo-session
can ever capture. Here you will be warmly greeted by the amazing Chief Yali,
our adoptive father who is legendary amongst the Dani for his kindness,
generosity and skills in the art of co-operation and avoiding conflict. With this unique
and privileged connection you will receive the full weight of Dani hospitality.

The weather in the Valley is predominantly sunny and
trekking along the river amidst the terraced farmlands and
wondrous forests is a trekker's paradise. Trails are usually clear and maintained
as local people travel them and this makes the trekking pretty comfortable.

The Yali
The Yali tribe lives high up along the valley ridges in the Jayawijaya mountains.
The land here is rugged and thinly populated. The tribes-people live in
wooden huts with roofs made of tree-bark and they are grouped into small
compounds. A vegetable garden and dense rainforest will surround each compound.

Trekking in the Yali area is more strenuous than in the lower reaches of the Valley
but it is perfect for the fit trekker who wants to experience truly virgin rainforest
and the unique people who live amidst it.

In summary, The Baliem Valley will provide a never to be forgotten experience.
The inhabitants of the valley are essentially peace-loving agrarians who
welcome visitors wholeheartedly.

West Papua Places Of Interest

West Papua forms the western half of the large island widely known as New Guinea. Administratively part of Indonesia, West Papua is officially known as Irian Jaya.

To experience West Papua is to embark on a voyage into one of humanity's deepest mysteries. This far-away and little known island lies like a curled infant in the lap of Mother Nature.

West Papua is home to the most ethnologically primitive cultures on Earth. No less than 25% of the world's languages are spoken here and obviously you will find a vast display of tribes and tribal customs. These are people largely unaffected by the strictures of the modern world as we know it; a race adapted to daily life solely through their basic survival elements.

The land of the Papuans is home to an incredibly diverse, rich and unique flora and fauna. No less than 85% of the island is covered by rainforest, much if it primary and untouched by man. Other prevailing ecosystems include steamy mangrove forest and savannah right through to alpine highlands with snow-capped mountains. Wildlife abounds and includes some of the most interesting creatures known to man. This also holds true with the magical beauty of West Papua's coastal underwater world, which hosts some truly amazing coral reefs.

Our singular appreciation and understanding of this island not only allows you the opportunity to visit and appreciate this most primitive of lands, but we also present you with the opportunity to experience and explore a completely unique human reality which can deepen your own sense of being and purpose. Root cultures such as those found in Papua hold an appreciation of deep earth secrets that can be shared only through direct experience. These are humans intrinsically interwoven with the natural fabric of their environment.

Many parts of West Papua still remain largely unexplored by peering, inquisitive western eyes and minds. For example, it has only been around 60 years since the outside world fell upon the tribes that inhabit the Baliem Valley in West Papua. The Korowai tribes were only discovered 25 years ago and other areas remain completely unexplored.

There remains a tremendous gap between those of us raised in western society and the most primitive people still alive on earth. If you are an individual who enjoys the exploration of this mysterious human condition you would certainly find a visit to West Papua immensely rewarding. Equally, if you simply enjoy and appreciate environments totally different from your own, then West Papua is surely for you.

Treks into most mainland areas require an arrival by flight into the Lake Sentani area located close to the West Papuan capital city of Jayapura. This region is a beautifully dramatic introduction to Papua. A huge wall of vegetation called the Cyclops sits majestically above Lake Sentani and makes for a stunning backdrop to the clear waters.

The best way to see the Lake and adjacent areas is by motorised canoe.
This transportation allows you uninterrupted perspectives of the area access to
visit the small fishing village built on stilts over the lake. Fishermen have been
plying their traditional trade here for many generations.

Lake Sentani is a famous primitive arts centre. Bark paintings, sago bowls and
small-carved items are amongst the local handicrafts found here. Our guides are
also a private collector of primitive Papuan art and therefore we have
the depth of knowledge and connections to ensure that you pay
the right price and that all items purchased are genuine.

The port city of Jayapura sits on the coast and has a population of around 250,000 including many people from other parts of the Indonesian archipelago. It is not
an unattractive city and you will find museums, hotels, an assortment of restaurants,
banks and markets for shopping. From Jayapura it is easy to take guided overnight
treks to primitive villages and it is a 45-minute flight to Wamena,
the main town of the famed Baliem Valley.